• zurohki@aussie.zone
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    10 days ago

    Powering a device that’s designed for a simple barrel jack or 12V battery from a type-c power supply.

    Most trigger devices I’ve seen have barrel jacks or positive and negative terminals as their output, so they don’t technically dump high voltage on Vbus, the output side isn’t USB.

    • edinbruh@feddit.it
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      10 days ago

      I’ve seen a lot that are targeted to misbehaving devices, or proprietary charging standards.

      For example, you have a charger with Qualcomm’s old fast charge, and a phone with Samsung’s, so you use a trigger to negotiate the Qualcomm’s setting equivalent to Samsung’s and you get fastcharge.

      There’s also stuff like fnirsi’s usb tester, which can trigger fast charge for (you guessed it) testing.

      • FellowEnt@sh.itjust.works
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        9 days ago

        I have an obscure piece of hardware that refuses to negotiate the required power from a power bank I know can handle it. Can I fix it with a lil board like this?!

          • FellowEnt@sh.itjust.works
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            9 days ago

            I just didn’t know this is was a thing, the device is a Pine II controller from Black Forest Motion, which should take 10–24V DC via USBC. Power bank is capable of 12V but doesn’t seem to want to negotiate.

            • edinbruh@feddit.it
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              9 days ago

              Maybe your controller supports only 10 or 24 and not 12 🤷. I’m not sure if that’s a thing.

              • FellowEnt@sh.itjust.works
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                9 days ago

                Nah it’s definitely flexible as it works fine with 12DC power brick, 3-4S LIPOs, just this issue with the USBC…

                • edinbruh@feddit.it
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                  9 days ago

                  Maybe it’s not running at 12v, but at 5v with higher current, which you can also do. The extreme example of this is the raspberry pi 5, which doesn’t have room for voltage regulation, so when it needs extra power, it tries to negotiate 5v at 5.3A (it’s a lot).

                  You can try using an app like “ampere”, but that will likely always read 5v because the phone reads the voltage after it’s gone through the regulator. You would need an usb tester to know what’s actually happening.